Review: Black Horse

by Anthony Hendon, Evening Chronicle

PUB grub has certainly come on since I was a lad.

I remember a time when dry-roasted peanuts were the most exciting offering at the establishments I frequented.

But nowadays you can expect restaurant-standard cuisine at many locals, and the Black Horse in East Boldon is a prime example.

Its restaurant, Zulu, is so popular, it’s recommended that you make a reservation for busy times. Although my dining companion and I did just that, we ended up arriving well in advance of our allotted time.

But to the pub’s credit, the table was ready and the staff gladly welcomed us through to the dining area a good half an hour earlier than we were expected.

With pleasant jazzy strains being played on the sound system at just the right volume, we were soon perusing the menu in a very relaxed frame of mind.

It was immediately clear plenty of thought had gone into the dishes. My starter was a soup I’d never come across – walnut and celery (£3.50) – and it was beautiful. Wholesome and full of flavour, it was just the right size of portion for an appetiser.

My friend couldn’t say the same of hers. Her first reaction to her seared scallops with chorizo, black pudding and potato salad (£7.95) was to say it was big enough to be a main course. (And in fact it’s available as one). However, she thoroughly enjoyed it. A discerning type, she was impressed by the use of Jersey Royal potatoes and the spiciness of the chorizo and declared the dish to be delicious overall.

Next up for me was roast rump of lamb with green beans in a tomato sauce and dauphin potatoes. (£13.50) The lamb came as four or five slices which, though good and thick, were melt-in-the mouth tender. I really savoured them. The potatoes were nicely fluffy and the ratatouille-style sauce and green beans were the perfect accompaniment.

On the other side of the table was monkfish fingers with fat chips, pea puree and tartare sauce (£13). Again the word delicious was used, with the homemade tartare sauce, in particular, impressing my friend, who called it gorgeous and remarked on how much better it tasted than the shop-bought variety.

The pea puree also proved to be a successful touch. While it looked like nothing more than mushy peas, my friend detected some potato as an added bonus.

Perhaps because her meal had been much more carbohydrate-laden than mine, she was unable to manage a dessert.

I was feeling close to full too, but I was determined to sample one of the 10 or so sweets on offer. I made my choice with the help of one of the waitresses, whom I asked which were the lightest choices.

She informed me that the pub usually has a berry dessert on offer, but not on this occasion. An unhelpful response at best – and pretty galling for someone very partial to berry fruits!

I ended up with a combo that was as unusual as my starter – lemon and almond polenta cake with stewed plums and Chantilly cream (£4.50). Being adventurous paid off – the cake was a light delight and the stewed plums were a sweet treat in themselves, the sauce taking the edge off the tartness.

But you don’t have to be particularly adventurous to enjoy the food at the Black Horse. The specials on the night we were there included a 16oz T-bone steak with chips and mushrooms and herb-crusted cod with sautéed potatoes and buttered greens.

Another highly enjoyable element of the Black Horse is the interactive décor.

The place is a kind of repository of 20th Century memorabilia and reading material, with the shelves lined with everything from classic board games to cartoon strip annuals, 1980s pop magazines and encyclopaedias.

The retro theme is carried through in the menus, which are presented in the form of LP covers, and there’s even a 1960s-style TV lounge area. You could make a whole night of a trip to the Black Horse, with plenty to entertain you before and after your meal.

My only quibbles were very minor ones to do with the service. I would have given the Black Horse a full five out of five had a jug of water we requested been delivered without us having to ask for it again and we hadn’t had to wait so long to get our bill. But it was a busy Saturday night and I’d say it’s only because the place is a victim of its own success that you might not receive prompt attention at peak times.

With a bottle of beer and glass of wine consumed with our meal, our bill came in at £47.80, which we agreed was reasonable for the excellent standard of food.

Here’s to the rise of the gastropub!